2026 February Gardening Guide
Church Crookham and Fleet Garden Society
Winter can be extremes of very strong winds and very wet weather; both of these make plants shift in the soil, especially those without an established root system. Sometimes it is impossible to match your preparation for Mother Nature but here are a few tips to help fix storm damage before the next one strikes.
Waterlogged soil, loosen the soil and aerate it with a pitchfork or fork to allow the water to drain away, be careful not to disrupt the roots
Fallen foliage, tidying up the leaves after a storm may be your first thought but the foliage is a good heat insulator and will protect soil from becoming frozen in the cold snaps. Instead rake leaves from paved areas and grass, without frosts, onto the flower and vegetable beds. The leaves will become mulch for the dry summer months and any bundles provide nesting sites for wildlife.
Broken stems, removing snapped branches and stems from shrubs will allow a clearer view of any problems requiring attention.
Prune using the ‘4 Ds’ – dead, diseased, damaged or dying to conserve the plant’s energy reserves. Once cut the inside flesh should be white indicating a healthy stem. If not, cut again until the healthy stem is exposed. New cuts are susceptible to rot and disease, some gardeners seal the wound using a pruning sealant but there is some contention about the need for this.
Remove weeds, a benefit of the wind and rain is to leave the soil soft, weeding after a storm is the perfect time to remove weed root systems in their entirety. This avoids the use of chemicals and negatively affecting the soil diversity.
Hand weeding, by holding the weed from the stem, pulling and twisting gently removes the whole plant from the root system. After weeding a mulch layer or bark chippings helps retain moisture and nutrients in the soil and also keeps light out so helping to suppress future weed growth.
Seeds for flowers and vegetables
Using a home-made or purchased peat free seed compost for seeds grown in pots or modules provides the maximal conditions for optimal germination, see ‘Why use a seed compost’.
Plant to depth suggested and cover compost or vermiculite. For ‘light covering’ sprinkle either compost or vermiculite.
Growing in modules, especially those which break down in the soil, ensures minimal disturbance for the roots so growth is less stunted by any shock to the plant.
When planting out larger seedlings such as courgettes and squashes, dig a hole slightly larger than the pot size and place some of the growing medium into the hole, the roots will appreciate the same compost composition so lessening the shock to the plant.
Plant pots/modules use scrubbed pots and trays to avoid possible contamination from previous sowings. Likewise use fresh compost each time.
Label, remember to label the pots or modules with name and date of sowing – it is so easy to forget which is which plant!
Natural light is essential to avoid seedlings becoming drawn, pale and leggy.
Watering, some professionals suggest using tap water for seeds, seedlings and young plants because sometimes water butt water can contain fungi which can cause damping-off disease.
Warm soil for early planting with cloches. If you dig, as opposed to non-dig, lightly fork the surface to speed up evaporation.
Flowers and shrubs
Re-firm the soil around the base of any tree, scrub or climber planted within the last 18 months or so, see above for reasons.
Sow most half-hardy and hardy annuals (e.g. sweet pea) and some perennials (e.g. echinaceas, dianthus and verbena) can be started now for a head start. Start in peat free compost in a warm position once seedlings appear and move into a cool bright position such as cooler window sill, greenhouse or cold frame. This keeps plants compact giving bushier healthier plants
Prune winter-flowering shrubs e.g. wisteria, heathers that have finished flowering; ornamental vines, as some are prone to ‘bleeding’ or ooze sap if pruned later and herbaceous perennials and grasses that have been left over winter for wildlife
Root cuttings, from herbaceous perennials while dormant such as anemone, eryngium, and phlox. See’ Root cuttings’ in ‘How to’ section coming shortly
Snowdrops, gently lift and split clumps with a fork teasing plants apart. Replant at the same time.
Roses, remove any dead, diseased or congested stems. Shorten side shoots by two thirds.
Climbing roses; train last year’s growth horizontally to encourage more vigorous growth.
Grasses, late February prune any hardy deciduous such as Molinia by cutting off old stems to ground level. Be wary of damaging new shoots.
Clematis, late flowering clematis need pruning now while still dormant. Cut stems back to 15-30cm just above the lowest pair of buds. Unpruned, the plant becomes a woody tangle with flowers high up. Tie in new stems as they grow.
Vegetables
Mulch the vegetable plot now with 5-10 cm / 2-4 inches of well-rotted garden compost or manure to add nutrients. Tuis suppresses weeds and conserves moisture.
Harvest
Continue to pick winter vegetables regularly – Brussels sprouts, kales, cabbages, parsnips and swedes. This encourages more crops and helps prevent spring bolt when plants run to seed. Allowing some seed development will provide you with your own seeds.
Germinate
Early potatoes, chitting simply means allowing seed potatoes to start sprouting before you plant them. Not essential, but worthwhile with early varieties for quicker growth, earlier crops and supposedly a higher yield. Start about six weeks before you want to plant them, mid-March to mid-April depending upon locality, weather and soil type. Plant later in colder areas, heavier clay soils. Wait until the ground is not frozen or water logged.
Stand in egg boxes or seed trays with the blunt end with the eyes or buds (known as the rose end) uppermost. Place in a bright, frost-free location for 4-6 weeks until the sprouts are about 5cm or 2in long. Sprouts should be purple/green in colour and look a little knobbly, if they are spindly and white they need more light. 2-3 sprouts are good so keep most sturdy and gently rub off the others to encourage early potatoes.
There is no advantage in chitting the main crop as they grow over a longer time period. Keep all the sprouts on second early and maincrops.
Other vegetables:
| Vegetable | Depth sown and quantity* | Position of pot/module** | Grow on, plant out |
| Aubergine | |||
| Beetroot | 2cm/0.75in | In rows direct in ground 20-25cm/8-10in apart with 1 seed every 2cm/1in or in modules 4-5 seeds 2cm/1in deep | Keep well-watered. Direct: thin to 1 plant every 5-7cm/2-2.5in. Module: thin to 5 seedlings, plant out with spacing of 15-20cm/6-8in between clumps |
| Broad beans | 4-5cm/2in singly in deep pot | Light sunny, away from rodents. | Once first true leaves are fully open and other leaves appearing. Plant out 15-20cm/6-8in apart. Water well. |
| Broccoli | |||
| Brussel sprouts | |||
| Cabbage, summer | 2cm/0.75in | Bright window sill or greenhouse | 4-5 true leaves, transplant into ground 35-40cms/13-16in apart. Middle March onwards. Generous handful compost at base. Firm soil |
| Chillies | Scatter on surface, cover lightly*** | Heated propagator or warm place, optimal temperature reliable 21°C. | |
| Leeks | 1-2cm/0.5-0.75in | 3-4 seeds per module under cover. Direct sow in April | Transplant when 5-7cm/2-3in tall, April onwards |
| Lettuce, rocket | 1cm/0.75in |
Heads lettuce: sow thickly in seed tray. Prick out once 2 true leaves Cut and come again: sow direct, thinly in rows 20-25cm/8-10in apart |
Head Lettuce: transplant when 7-8 true leaves, 25cm/10in spacings. Cut and come again: no need to thin |
| Onions | 1-2 seeds in pot 1-1.5cm | Warm window sill or propagator. Once germinated grow on in bright place | Do not thin. When 7cm/2.75in tall transplant spacing clumps every 15-20cm/6-8in, usually late March/early April |
| Peas | 2-3cm/0.75-1.25in 3-4 in module or 4-5 in 7cm/2.75in pot | Cool and bright. | Transplant in clumps in single row or around a wigwam of sticks with 7-10cm/2.75-4in spacings. April onwards |
| Peppers, sweet | Scatter on surface, cover lightly | Heated propagator or warm place, optimal temperature reliable 21°C. | |
| Radish | 1-2cm/0.5-0.75in | Direct in trenches 1-2 seeds per cm or in modules 5-7 seeds per cell | Direct: thin to 1 seedling every 2-3cm. Modules: no thinning, plant out clumps every 7-10cm/2.75-4in |
| Tomatoes for green house |
* Compost is peat free seed compost unless otherwise suggested.
** Pot can be pot (fibre or other), seed tray or module, cardboard tube
***Light covering could be compost, vermiculite
Fruit
Fruit trees
Complete pruning of fruit trees with pips, such as apples and pears, by end of this month. NB stone fruit trees such as plums, gages, cherries are not pruned in the winter, that is a job for the summer.
Autumn raspberries prune stems to ground level, new shoots will appear in the spring. Apply a thick layer (5-10cm) of mulch to add nutrients, suppress weeds and aid moisture retention. Also apply an organic fertiliser.
Stone fruit, e.g. peaches, apricots, cover overnight with biodegradable fleece to shield buds from frost.
Rough Grass and meadow areas
We will continue to experience frosts for some weeks so it is best to avoid walking on grassed areas where possible to prevent damage to the brittle grass blades and possible infection.
When bulb foliage begins to appear in an area where people walk or children play mark out the positions with canes to prevent damage. Once the foliage is more prominent these can be removed.
Hedgerows
Prune deciduous species (e.g. beech, hornbeam) while dormant and birds begin nest building. Mulch to encourage growth
Green Gardening
Borders, when ground is not water logged or frozen mulch with 5-10cm layer of well-rotted garden compost or manure around plants to add nutrition, suppress weed growth and retain moisture in summer
Rain water, continue to collect winter rainfall from house/garage/shed/greenhouse rooves, in water butts or leave other containers out for rain to collect in such as disused wheel barrow or large bucket
Log pile, stack thick cut branches in a shady, out of the way spot. As they rot down they will provide habitat for garden wildlife
Pollinators, grow single early flowering plants such as crocus, hellebores and mahonias will provide nectar for the pollinators emerging from hibernation